Uncover the Untold and Fascinating History of Sushi You Never Knew

Sushi is more than just a trendy meal

I, like many, have been swept away by fresh sashimi, perfectly rolled maki, and the endless variations served up in Western restaurants. But how much of this sushi obsession is connected to the history of sushi, and how much is a product of modern adaptation?

While I’ve long been a devoted sushi enthusiast, I realised that what I love may only be a small part of sushi’s rich heritage. Let's look past the California rolls and fusion trends, to uncover the roots of this ancient dish and how it evolved into what we enjoy today because sometimes, the story behind the food is just as fascinating as the taste on the plate.

1. Sushi Didn’t Actually Originate in Japan

Although sushi has become a cultural symbol of Japan, synonymous with its blend of tradition and innovation, it didn’t actually originate there. Japan is now the sushi capital of the world, and it’s true that the country introduced sushi to the West in the form we recognize today. But where does sushi’s story truly begin?

To uncover its origins, we need to travel back thousands of years to ancient China. Sushi, or at least its predecessor, was born out of a need for preservation, not culinary artistry. In the 2nd century BC, long before the invention of refrigeration, fresh fish was preserved by wrapping it in fermented rice. The word "sushi" itself means "sour-tasting," referring to the vinegary flavor of the fermented rice.

Back then, the rice wasn’t eaten at all. Its sole purpose was to preserve the fish, which was salted to prevent bacterial growth. Once the fish was ready to be consumed, the rice was discarded. Sounds like a waste, right? Apparently, Japan thought so too. As sushi made its way to Japan, it evolved into the delicacy we know today, where the rice became just as integral to the dish as the fish itself.

How Did Sushi Make Its Way to Japan?

Given Japan's island geography, it’s no surprise that fish has always been a cornerstone of the Japanese diet. In the 8th century, the practice of preserving fish using fermented rice traveled from China to Japan. But the Japanese, known for their attention to detail and constant pursuit of perfection, didn’t just adopt the method, they transformed it.

Rather than focusing solely on preservation, the Japanese began to eat the fish raw, pairing it with rice as a complete meal. This marked the beginning of a shift from necessity to a culinary art form. Over time, they enhanced the rice by mixing it with vinegar, not only to aid preservation but to complement the flavor of the fish. The result? A dish that could be enjoyed fresh, without sacrificing taste or texture.

This evolving technique laid the groundwork for what we now recognize as sushi, and perhaps even the precursor to modern poke bowls. What started as a method to prolong the life of fish became something entirely new—a delicacy appreciated for its flavor, freshness, and simplicity.

By transforming sushi into an art, Japan established a culinary tradition that would soon become a global phenomenon.

The Birth of Modern Sush

By the middle of the 18th century, sushi underwent another major transformation, thanks to a man named Hanaya Yohei, often referred to as the "father of modern sushi." Living in Edo (now Tokyo), Yohei sought to create a version of sushi that was both visually appealing and easy to eat. His solution? He compressed vinegared rice into small, oblong shapes and placed a slice of raw fish on top. Simple, elegant, and quick to prepare—thus, nigiri sushi was born.

This innovation revolutionized sushi, making it more accessible as a fast, ready-to-eat meal. Instead of requiring the fermentation process of old, Yohei’s nigiri sushi could be prepared and enjoyed on the spot, marking the beginning of sushi as a staple of Japanese street food. With its delicate balance of flavors and convenient presentation, it quickly gained popularity in bustling urban centers like Edo, and this version of sushi became the foundation for the global sensation we know today.

Mr. Hanaya Yohei Self-portrait. Source: Sushinet

2. This Delicacy Was Originally Fast Food

It’s fascinating to think that what we now consider a gourmet delicacy was once nothing more than quick, affordable street food. Have you ever wondered if you were born in the wrong era or culture? This might be one of those moments for me. In the past, enjoying sushi didn’t require a special occasion or a hefty bill. It was, at its core, a "cheap, quick snack" meant to be eaten with your hands.

Hanaya Yohei's nigiri wasn’t the small, bite-sized sushi we see today. Instead, it was a larger, more substantial portion, designed to satisfy hunger while keeping the fish fresh. In the bustling 19th-century streets of Tokyo, food stalls popped up everywhere, inspired by Yohei’s invention. These stalls offered a fast, convenient, and affordable way to enjoy sushi, much like grabbing a street taco or a slice of pizza today.

What’s even more interesting is that this origin story tells us how sushi was meant to be eaten, by hand. Nigiri sushi, in its early form, wasn’t served with chopsticks. In fact, chopsticks were reserved for sashimi (slices of raw fish without rice). Speaking of sashimi...

Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of History Archives

3. Salmon Sashimi is Not Originally Japanese

While fish has always been a staple of the Japanese diet, by the mid-1990s, overfishing and a misunderstanding of the ocean's ecosystem led to a depletion of local fish stocks. To sustain its growing population and traditional cuisine, Japan opened its doors to Norwegian fish, specifically salmon and capelin. This collaboration marked one of Norway’s greatest export successes and had a significant culinary impact on Japanese cuisine.

The perfection that is salmon sashimi. Source: 2 Oceans Vibe

Traditionally, Japanese sushi was made with tuna and sea bream, with raw salmon largely avoided due to concerns over bacteria, parasites, and texture. Convincing the Japanese to embrace salmon was a lengthy process. According to Bjørn Eirik Olsen, one of the project managers involved in this endeavor, it took 15 years from the first shipment of salmon to Japan in 1980 for raw consumption to gain acceptance, culminating in a breakthrough in 1995. Following this, salmon exports surged from virtually nothing to 28,000 metric tonnes in 1995, with 5,000-6,000 tonnes consumed raw.

As a fan of salmon sushi, I am grateful for the Norwegian determination that made this possible. However, with salmon being a premium fish, it likely contributed to sushi's evolution from fast food to a luxury dining experience. Sometimes, you have to pick your battles!

4. Tempura’s Origins: A Surprising Chapter in the History of Sushi

After salmon sashimi, my next love is tempura prawns. And let’s be honest, tempura prawns wrapped in a cucumber hand roll? That’s next-level fancy, and I’m all about it. Here's the twist, not even tempura, one of the most iconic Japanese dishes, is originally from Japan. The concept of deep-frying food in a light, crispy batter actually came from Portugal.

Peixinhos da Horta. Source: Food From Portugal

In 1543, three Portuguese sailors, blown off course, accidentally landed on Japanese shores. This unplanned arrival kicked off a trading relationship between the two nations, exchanging everything from weapons to recipes. Though the Portuguese were eventually banished from Japan due to religious conflicts, one of their culinary contributions, Peixinhos da Horta (don’t worry if you can’t pronounce it—I can’t either), lived on. This dish of battered and fried green beans became the foundation for Japan’s version of tempura.

True to form, Japan put its own spin on the recipe, applying the batter technique to seafood, especially prawns. Now, thanks to the Portuguese influence, we get to enjoy the crunchy, deliciousness of tempura prawns.

5. How Westernised is Our Sushi?

The simple answer? Very westernized. While many basic ingredients and techniques remain similar, Western sushi often strays far from the simplicity of traditional Japanese sushi. In Japan, sushi is all about keeping it simple: raw fish, vinegared rice, condiments, and seasoning. Sadly, you won’t find avocado, mayonnaise, or strawberries in traditional sushi.

When Japanese natives try American-style sushi, many comment that the flavors seem to mask the delicate simplicity of the original dish. No offense, America, but there’s often a perception that quantity is prioritized over quality in Western sushi. However, despite the deviation from tradition, Japanese tasters have admitted that dishes like California rolls, fusion rolls, and volcano rolls are still delicious and satisfying, even if they lack the subtlety of authentic sushi.

California Roll, Ichiro Mashita, Tokyo Kaikan, United States, 1960s. From Signature Dishes that Matter. Source: Phaidon

It’s worth noting that when sushi first made its way to the West, it had to adapt to local tastes to gain popularity. In the 1960s, Japanese immigrants began introducing sushi to the world, but Westerners were hesitant about eating raw fish. So the California roll was designed specifically to appeal to Western palates. Ichiro Mashita is credited with inventing this roll, using crab, cucumber, and avocado to create a sushi experience that felt familiar yet new. While some purists may disapprove, it’s undeniable that the California roll helped broaden sushi’s appeal across countries and cultures.

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So, when you visit Japan, make sure to enjoy the simplicity of traditional sushi in a local restaurant, no fancy rolls are required. Hopefully, I’ve got your taste buds tingling, and if you were debating what to eat tonight, I hope I’ve just settled that for you: sushi is always the answer.

Xièxiè

Takk skal du ha

Obrigado

Arigatōgozaimashita

Thank you